Mehndi History and Fashion
Mehendi or Henna has been in the use as a natural cosmetic for the past 5000years. The tradition of mehendi is believed to have originated in North Africa and the Middle East.
Only in the 12th century the Mughals brought mehendi to India. As it started to gain more popularity people began to apply more sophisticated methods and designs. Latest research shows that the intricate patterns found in India have assumed their present form in the 20th century only. In the 17th century the barber’s wife was appointed to apply henna on Indian women. From that time most women in India, regardless of their social and marital status embellish their hands and feet with mehendi.
Since the rich and royal families, from very early, used mehendi for various matters it became very popular among people. The reasons for its appeal with the masses are plenty like it is cooling and painless, not permanent like real tattoos and no artistic skill needed to apply it.
Nothing sacred or spiritual is associated with mehendi, but it is believed that it will bring luck, fortune, blessings and benefits to the family. To prepare a mehendi paste, dried leaves are powdered and mixed with water. Then patterns are drawn on the skin by squeezing the paste through the tip of a cone. The girl sits motionless for about 3-4 hours until the designs become dry, hard and crusted. The paste is said to impart a cooling effect on the bride’s nerves. The remains of the paste are removed with water. Now a dark red imprint, lasting for some weeks, is left on the skin.
Today mehendi is gaining a significant place in the fashion world very fast. People all over the world have begun to realize the harmless features of this wonderful paste and consider this as an alternative to real tattoos. This painless mehendi is introduced into the Euro-American culture recently and it is appreciated in the West. Mehendi has got a boost by the Hollywood actors, celebrities and Pop singers who have made this art of skin painting famous. People and cosmopolitan help in spreading the mehendi fashion still further.
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Costume jewelry has attained a significant role in the lives of modern women. Only very few Indian women now prefer to decorate themselves with costly heavy gold jewels. Still, for occasions like weddings in India, huge investments are made on gold ornaments.
Costume jewelry is an ornament made out of inexpensive materials ranging from plastic and glass to white metal, cheap alloys and fabric with resale value. Costume jewels have set a fashion trend and they are affordable even to the common man. No doubt, costume jewels bear an aesthetic look and women all over the world love to wear them.
Ever-increasing daytime robberies force the women to abstain from wearing expensive gold ornaments. Today’s too affordable costume jewelry, in various designs and colors offer an alternative to the costly ones. Ladies can select any piece matching to their outfits. They may not last long, but the frequent changing trends compel then to go for the latest styles. If the links are strong and the materials used is of a high quality the jewelry may last many years.
All the ornaments, including small and large earrings, nose rings, chains, necklaces, bangles, wrist bands, waist bands, finger rings, anklets and toe rings, all the jewel pieces with which a typical Indian lady adorns herself, are readily available in the costume shops in enchanted designs and radiant colors. Special mention is to be made to replicas of movie star gems and brooches and bracelets of multi-colored stones. Certain metallic jewelry might be plated with 18 or 22 carat gold minimum 7 times.
This jewelry could be made out of any kind of material available, namely, pure silver, sterling silver, beads, semi precious stones, glass, lac, metal, kundan,, bone, fabric etc. The various forms of cosmetic jewelry are antique, body, magnetic, glass, artificial, crystal, fashion, beaded and imitation jewelries.
Recently India has become a major producer of costume jewelry and a potential exporter of it. Since the main cost of this jewelry is involved in the skill and the labor this could be manufactured in India at a very low cost and consequently the exported goods could be sold at more competitive prices.
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Indian necklace is famous for its aesthetic look and soft intricate craftsmanship. A necklace, needless to say, is a jewelry worn around the neck, mainly by women. It is a chain or cord often made up of metals like gold, silver, platinum etc usually attached with a pendant or locket to enhance its beauty. Necklaces made of cloth further accessorized with shells, rocks/gems or even wood are also not rare.
Indian necklaces are very often closed firmly with threaded ropes. The length of the necklace could be adjusted with a string attached to it. This string or cord might be considered as the trademark of Indian jewelry. By loosening or tightening the string the necklace could be worn by women of any size. Also, since Indian necklace is made up of all kinds of stones it becomes rather heavy and the string provides sufficient support to it to be worn around the neck.
Though there are various models of necklaces decorated with different gemstones, color stones or other accessories pearl necklaces are the most popular, worn by ladies for hundreds of years and have evolved into modern styles. The various forms of pearl necklaces are known by different names such as a necklace, with larger pearls at the centre and gradually becoming smaller and smaller towards the clasp is called a graduated pearl necklace while a bib necklace has multiple layers of stepped pearls.A uniform necklace consists of pearls of the same type whereas a dog collar comprises of several pearl layers reaching near the base of the neck. 22”-23” long matinee necklace will touch the top of the cleavage and an opera necklace 30-36inches long touches the breastbone. 18” long princess necklace is between the choker and matinee necklace.
The age-old exquisite designs like mango necklace and jasmine-bid necklace continue to be evergreen favorites. Indian necklaces are mostly handcrafted in beautiful designs. The pendants might consist of lovely patterns or images of god engraved within the metal. The metal could also be carved into the desired patterns.
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Wedding jewelry or Bridal jewelry, made out of gold, silver, platinum or diamond depending on one’s taste and budget, is a very important aspect in an Indian women’s life. If you can afford then designer jewelry and customized jewelry are within your reach. On the main wedding day heavy ornaments that complement the bride’s attire and her personality are worn from head to toe. A typical Indian bride is adorned with the following jewels:
Hair Embellishments: Today hair accessories are very popular and becoming a fashion statement. If the bride wears a diamond –studded outfit the hair accessories also should contain diamonds. Decorating hair with pearl headgear and silver hairpins are also very popular now. In certain Indian communities brides wear elaborate headgear of flowers.
Earrings: Though earrings are available in various styles and designs like small, delicate, heavy and dangling ones and also earrings covering the whole ears, brides wear earrings with a chain that is hooked in the hair. Bride’s earrings are typically made of gold decorated with dazzling gemstones or pearls.
Nose Ring: Indian bride wears a nosering with an attached chain that is hooked in the hair. In some communities brides wear a nose ring with no chains. Available in different designs and styles, earrings have set trends in the fashion world.
Necklace: The most versatile bridal jewelry, usually made of gold, available in varied designs and embellished with precious dazzling gemstones or pearls, is chosen fitting well with the neckline, color and pattern of the bride’s outfit. A deep neckline requires a long neckline while a choker looks fascinating with a smaller neck.
Bangles: An Indian bride wears gold bangles studded with various sparkling gemstones and pearls. Nowadays pretty bracelets are also popular among brides.
Ring Bracelet: This unique bracelet is attached to finger rings by means of chains.
Maangtika is worn on the forehead with a decorative centre piece having a long string.
Other important bridal accessories are head crown tiara, armbands worn on the upper part of the arm, diamond or pearl studded fingerrings, beautiful anklets, toerings, bracelets and golden bindi. South Indian brides wear a waist chain called “Oddiyanam” around their waist.
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For ordinary people it is only a dream to access a real gold, diamond or a pearl jewelry as a huge sum is involved in the purchase of them. Now jewels, with affordable prices, at the same time retaining the aesthetic looks of the real ones, come to their rescue. Still worse is the growing fear of theft which compels people not to wear expensive ornaments while going out or keep them in the house either, but safely in bank lockers. They wear them only on special occasions such as weddings, important religious functions etc. These well-to-dos also turn to low cost jewels for daily wear.
In the fat Indian weddings a large amount is spent on expensive wedding ornaments. But it is not sure whether these ornaments will be of any use after the wedding, except during a financial crisis. Otherwise cheap jewels come as an easy way out. To get a genuine diamond jewelry one has to shell out a huge amount. Instead, diamond replica jewelry, looking the same as a real diamond but costing much less are available in eye catchy dazzling designs. The beautiful diamond replicas have become a fashion statement these days after such jewelry have been worn by popular personalities.
Costly gold jewels have a separate place among Indian ladies. Today ornaments, made out of cheap metals like copper, but plated with 1gram pure gold, have the same looks of real gold ornaments. These sparkling 1gram gold ornaments studded with various color stones and artificial pearls are available in intricate designs at very affordable prices ranging from $5-50 with 1-3years guarantee. Jewelry made out of Hyderabad pearls and costume jewelry made out of a variety of materials like pure silver, glass, beads, kundan, semi-precious stones, cheap metals etc have created waves in the fashion world due to their affordability and fabulous designs. The various types of ornaments like necklaces, bangles, earrings, bracelets, anklets, rings etc, sold at low prices, exhibit the same elegance and charm as the original genuine jewelry.
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As far as Indian fashion is concerned hair style accessories for ladies hold a commanding position. Hair accessories for women with their stunning looks and exquisite variety are hitting the fashion market in recent times. It gives a unique perfection to their personality by enhancing the beauty. We often see models with gorgeous hair accessories in the fashion pageants. The extensive hair style accessories include barrettes, various colored hair clips, hair claws, hairpins, forks, hairsticks, headbands, scrunchies, ponytail holders and enchanting bridal hair accessories.
Bridal hair accessory is usually studded with various pearls, dazzling gemstones, beads of radiant colors, pretty flowers and crystals. Many types of silk flowers in sizzling designs to decorate hair styles are in vogue. Barrette styles such as ruby bow, amethyst bow, arched pony clip, classic topaz barrette, jet bow, sapphire bow and crystal flower barrette are very popular among fashionable ladies.
Ladies put up their long or short hair in various fascinating styles using hair buns when they attend parties, festivals and other important functions. These hair styles are often decorated with hair nets, beaded pins or long “U” shaped hair clips, flowers or tiny gems. They look simply superb with the traditional Indian wear sari. Women with butterfly bun style are also a common sight. Hair sticks made up of natural bone or exotic wood suit well with all Indian outfits. Ponytail is the current craze among small girls, teens and young women. To make this simple trendy hairstyle more attractive there is a commendable variety of accessories like ponytail holders, scrunchies and silk ribbons. Scrunchies, made up of silk/satin are available in all the colors of rainbow. We have a special elegant band called Boho band to give the hair a nice firm look. Indian women also use accessories like Gajra and Paranda to glorify their hairstyles. Paranda has a fragrance of jasmine flowers and unique vibrant colors which set it apart from Gajra.
South Indian classical dancers and brides wear various hair accessories like nettichutti, chandraprabha, suryaprabha, lakudi, tirukkuppu and mattal, an earring chain that is hooked in the hair.
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Nighty: Nighty has become a magic word among women all over India. Started as a night wear, now it is also used as a day wear by ladies while they are in the house doing household duties and going to nearby places. This housecoat, a long gown from shoulder to foot is available in all the leading garment shops as well as at the roadside vendors, in various colors and beautiful designs. They come in small, medium, large and free sizes with or without sleeves. The price is very reasonable ranging from $1-$10 depending on the fabric used to make it. The fabrics include ordinary cotton, superior cotton, synthetic cotton and certain silk materials. Women get a comfortable relaxed feeling while in this dress and it is very easy to wash, easy to dry and no need to press. The popularity of nighty/housecoat is so tremendous that it has become a fashion statement very fast. No wonder, garment shops vie with each other to attract women with their stock of nighties in all possible colors and eyecatchy designs.
Other affordable garments Indian women wear include very simple salwar suits and saris, made out of fabrics like ordinary cotton, synthetic cotton or polyester without any embellishments. They also come in attractive colors and beautiful prints, the price ranging from $2.5-$8. These low-priced wears are the most sold out items in the Indian textile market. Designer saris, having the same looks and softness of their expensive silk counterparts, come in at affordable prices between 6-10dollars. During festival seasons, like Diwali, all Indian textile showrooms are flooded with all sorts of expensive as well as affordable outfits and the business is at its peak then. Jewels and costume accessories also make a very substantial profit at that time.
To conclude, most Indians believe in astrology strongly and firmly. They trust that the rays emitted from the nine precious genuine gemstones like diamond, sapphire, emerald, pearl, ruby, topaz, opal, coral and turquoise will fetch wealth and health removing all the miseries and hardships from the family. Men and women make ornaments, usually golden rings, studded with the gems together or separately and wear them on their body.
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History tells us that Indians have always valued gold very much and its tradition and culture are deep-rooted in Indian soil. Indian ladies have always exhibited a special passion towards the costly yellow metal and an resurgence of gold is felt in Indian fashion in recent times. Making a strong and beautiful fashion statement, gold has become a bold, sleek and perfect accessory for the fashion- hunting dynamic modern ladies.
Rigid jewelry is now out of form while rhythm and fluidity have taken its place, i.e. a sort of mobility and flow and craftsmanship have entered in the making of gold ornaments. Body jewels like waist chains, armbands and hairpieces have emerged as the latest fashion trend. Jewels worn around the arm and torso also have attained unprecedented heights in the new fashion world. Today gold can be woven into a fabric like form out of which gold scarves, head ornaments, belts and funky top all worn by ladies are made. For garments in bold and bright colors gold seems to be an ideal accessory.
The traditional temple jewels worn by dancers of yesteryears have made a tremendous return. Traditional jewels teamed with ultra-modern outfits, showing a bold and stylish look, create waves in the fashion parades and beauty contests. Indian gold chains, hanging loosely around the neck and waist decorated with lot of coins, charms and thin pendants are an attraction in this season. All fashion designers admire the gypsy-chic look of the gold coins. Most of the Indian jewels like the South Indian Kaashumalai made up of gold coins are in a terrific revival stage.
Today Indian gold is in an experimental stage with innovative texture and forms, like using beaten or matte gold to make warrior-like jewelry such as gold necklaces and wristbands. These ornaments look very attractive against dark complexioned skin. Also the fashion designers are experimenting with the designs and finishes of the gold ornaments belonging to the Ancient Indian civilization.
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Indian costumes will never be complete devoid of classical dance costumes in bright radiant colors along with sparkling accessories. Even the male dance costumes are as elegant and colorful as the female costumes
Bharatanatyam costumes: Bharatanatyam dance is originated in Tamil Nadu, a southern state in India. The costumes of this style have evolved a lot and the present styles are the skirt/sari and the pajama. The sari consists of a knife pleated fan starting from the front portion of the waist touching the knee or the mid calf. In the midst of performance this pleated fan will open up during particular postures enhancing the beauty and richness of the costume. Hairstyle, a long plait/braid, is bedecked with jasmine flowers and each part of the body from head to toe is embellished with dazzling ornaments. Belts with small rings attached to them are tied around the ankles producing a pleasing noise while dancing.
Kathak costumes: Kathak is mentioned in Indian epics and performed in temples. During the Mughal period the costumes started to look like those in Mughal paintings. The male costume includes a flared kameez, a churidar and a cap. Female artist wears churidar-kameez or a long skirt, blouse and a dupatta. The accessories are the same as Bharatanatyam.
Kuchipudi costumes: Originated in Andhra Pradesh Kuchipudi has a costume, accessories all more or less resembling those of Bharatanatyam.
Manipuri costumes: Female dancer wears a tight velvet blouse and a wide bordered skirt with twirling flounces. The hair is coiled into a bun at the side of the head and a thin veil is draped over it. The male has a dhoti and embroidered bands across his chest. These bands end in flaps falling over his hips. In another form both male and female wear a richly embroidered silk or satin dhoti with a pleated /frilled cloth hanging from the middle of the waist to the knees. Women wear a tight blouse; but male only a necklace.
Mohiniattam is a feminine dance of Kerala. The costume consists of a white sari and a tight blouse. The hair is coiled into a bun at one side. She wears elaborate gold ornaments and her eyes are lined beautifully and sensually.
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Anklet is gold, silver or gemstone jewelry worn around the ankles embellished with beautiful pearls or designs. Most anklets are nearly 9.5 inches long, flexible or solid in design. In the past anklets had bells, the tinkling sound of which indicated the presence of a newly wed bride. Fifteen years back anklets attained the status of fashion accessory and presently they are a strong contender for the style statements.
Anklets are available in various sizes and shapes. Traditional anklets are chains made up of rather delicate silver and gold. But now they come in pretty threaded and beaded forms often in crystals, semi-precious stones, wood and seashells. To most designers the latest trend is to have five different anklets on a single-foot. But there are ladies who wear only a single gold chain with bells on left or right foot or half a dozen beaded ones on both ankles. Chunky wooden beaded and even tattooed anklets are very popular among fashion craze women. But the current hottest stuff is a single string of beads and threads woven together.
Silver anklets, showcasing unique craftsmanship with exquisite designs, occupy an unchallenged position among other jewelry. Indian women have been wearing this beautiful ornament for centuries. In South India the name for anklet is ‘golusu’, mostly made up of silver. This anklet consists of groups of three tiny spheres at intervals. Silver anklets with small bells are also popular among small girls, teens and young ladies. These bells produce a pleasing tinkling noise while walking. Classical Bharatanatyam dancers wear anklets known as ‘Salangai’ which is a leather strip with many slightly larger metal bells attached to it. Another ancient version is ‘Silambu’, a round hollow tube made of gold or silver filled with precious stones or pearls inside.
Normally an anklet has to be at least 2-3 inches longer than the ankle size because then only beads, bells and other fittings will fall right below the anklebone. Anklet in recent times has become a fashion statement in the West also. Anklets can produce a specific look the wearer wants to project. Heavy oxidized anklets with bells have an ethnic look, beads and diamante represent modern and for casual chic, tattooed anklets fit well.